“Paris is always a good idea.” – Audrey Hepburn

From Tuscany to the Veneto: Three Winery Visits in Italy

In the summer of 2019, we traveled to Italy with the plan of focusing on the cuisine and wine of the Italian peninsula.  Here we would like to share our experience visiting these wineries because we found all three visits exceptionally informative and entertaining, the wines of high quality, and the regions representative of the cultivation of important varietals and wine styles of central and northern Italy.   

Being an appassionata of winery architecture, I was previously familiar with the Antinori structure designed by Archea Associati (2012) located in Bargino outside of Florence known for its spiral (corkscrew-like) staircase.  Between this innovative architecture, the range of Antinori wines, and the proximity to Florence, this was our one obligatory winery stop in the area.  As an aside, the Antinori family owns numerous wineries throughout Italy which specialize in different styles and varietals; in Bargino, the winery produces Chianti Classico.  The winey tour is very entertaining and informative but the tasting at the tour’s conclusion and an optional lunch at the rooftop restaurant are the crowning experiences.  Your tour will end with a tasting of  selected wines but the tasting bar on the premises offers visitors the opportunity to sample many other vintages. The roof top restaurant Rinuccio  overlooking the vineyards combines the experiences of a traditional Italian terrace with light and contemporary design featuring a range of delectable Italian dishes and of course, the appropriate wines.  

Our visit to Solaria was arranged by a local Viator tour and we were thrilled with this selection.  The winery is located outside of Montalcino and produces the renowned Brunello di Montalcino. The winery is owned and operated by the women of the Cencioni family.  The center of this family business is Patrizia who coordinates the efforts of her daughters and her mother. Our gracious guide showed us the vineyards and the wine making facilities clarifying differences between Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello de Montalcino.  We selected an optional wine tasting paired with lunch which was a wonderful experience combining the views of the Montalcino rolling vineyards with its cuisine and wine.

Traveling north, we participated in another Viator tour that left from Venice to the vineyards of the Veneto.  The Masi Winery, a larger producer of wines from the Veneto, specializes in the celebrated Amarone della Valpolicella wine and we toured their Sergeo Alighieri facility outside of Verona.  This specific location is a legacy of the family of Dante Alighieri of literary fame and the land and the structures reflect its storied past.  The tour and the tasting illustrate the differences between Valpolicella Superiore Ripaso, Amarone della Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella.  Structured around the Corvina varietal, Amarone is produced from grapes that are first dried all winter before being processed and the winery tour focuses on illustrating this process. Exposure to this complex method of creating the Amarone enables  guests to truly appreciate the reasons for higher price point of this wine.  One unique aspect of this winery which you may see is the use of cherry barrels in the ageing of some of the wines.  Upon the tour’s completion, Sergeo Alighieri has a wonderful wine shop in an intimate and picturesque building and the staff is well prepared to assist you in any orders you may wish to make.

These three visits combine visiting important wine producing areas, tasting significant styles of wine from important wineries, viewing beautiful natural environments and interesting architectural structures, and receiving gracious hospitality and educational opportunities.  We would visit again given the opportunity and we encourage you to consider including these outings on your wish list of Italian experiences.

Un Joyeux Noël à Paris

What would you like for Christmas this year or perhaps in 2021?  Consider splurging for a quick trip to Paris over the holiday season to savor the ambiance of this always enchanting city.  On our recent trip December 2019, we were able to purchase good flights for a great price, to find a comfortable and ideally located room for the stay, and to participate in activities available all year round as well as events directly related to the holiday festivities.  Due to the brevity of our stay, we concentrated on the Left Bank area of St. Germain de Prés, our favorite corner of Paris.  

Christmas Markets

Although an import from Alsatian region of Eastern France, Parisian Christmas markets are available all over the city.  Based on our visits, most were intimate and inviting featuring gourmet products such as charcuterie, cheeses, dried fruit and wine which are especially popular during the holidays with less emphasis on Christmas ornaments.  A local resident informed us that the markets can change from year to year; 2019 featured numerous smaller markets located in lovely corners around the city.  Some of these markets have themes such as an Italian themed market and the Alsatian market.

Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte

Located about an hour from Paris, the Chateau was built by Louis XIV’s financial minister, Nicolas Fouquet.  The Chateau’s beauty allegedly provoked the ire of the King who later imprisoned its owner and took possession of the property.  A visit to the Chateau is a fascinating historical experience and a popular activity for French families due to the elaborate Christmas decorations. After visiting several historical rooms, guests pass through larger public rooms decked out for the holidays. Children are afforded the opportunity to dress in period clothes available at the Chateau as they participate in the tour with their families.   Although the costumes must be returned at tour’s end, families are then free to stroll the Chateau’s gardens and partake in hot chocolate, spiced wine, and sweet delicacies.  

Food and Wine  

While it seems arbitrary to separate food and wine in French culture, let’s start with the wine.  A bit north of the Louvre, we discovered a great wine bar/café Ô Chateau www.o-chateau.com.  At this location, guests can experience wine through classes, tastings paired with food, and meals.  English is widely spoken and the staff we met were knowledgeable and accommodating.  Check the website as reservations are suggested for most activities and should you decide to splurge on a dessert wine, try a glass of the Sauterne D’Yquem served with a bit of foie gras.  Superbe!  We also stopped at La Maison des Millesimes, a wine shop featuring Bordeaux wines on Boulevard Saint Germain.  We have passed by on several visits but this time we decided to investigate and we found excellent guidance on our choices.  We selected a Sauterne and two bottles of Saint Émilion to make the trip back to the States and we have enjoyed them thoroughly.

In terms of food, the possibilities are almost endless.  We customarily delight in our experiences at L’Atelier by Joël Robuchon and again they met and exceeded our expectations.  A bit of a splurge, the ambiance is that of an upscale tapas bar and the small and larger plates are extraordinary.  The artistry of the plating matches the flavors of the dishes and the staff is professional and yet personable as well.  The bar of the Hotel Pont Royal to which the restaurant is attached is a great place of enjoy an apéritif while waiting for one of the two seatings in the restaurant.

A new find for us was the casual La Mer restaurant/bar, part of the highly reviewed Le Comptoir, just south of the Boulevard Saint Germain.  We suggest arriving early (we were seated at about 11:30 for lunch) as the locale is quite small and popular.  Remember that the bulk of the menu is dangling from the ceiling on small posters indicating the price and name of the dish along with an image.  The seafood dishes we selected were marvelous and they are served quite quickly.  We wanted to return to La Mer during this trip but the crowds discouraged us during the prime operating hours.

A great find while on a budget is the nearby León de Bruxelles featuring Belgian-style mussels and other seafood offerings. Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore are two large cafes also on the Boulevard Saint Germain that offer the quintessential Parisian café experience and one can order everything from a simple coffee to a meal although the prices can add up quickly.

Shopping  

Faire de la vitrine is an exhilarating activity in Paris yet the goods available and the numerous intriguing storefronts can be overwhelming. Three of my favorite women’s boutiques found in this vicinity are Héroines (www.heroine.fr) Indies (www.indies.fr) and Nitya (40 Rue Bonaparte).  The nearby Gudule siver shop (www.gudule.com) offers a dazzling array of international jewelry pieces as well.  Gourmet shops, antique stores, leather goods and home goods, bakeries and chocolate shops are all well represented and you will be sure to find your favorites as well.

Culture

Most certainly, the museums and cultural activities in Paris are legendary and many guidebooks can offer detailed information.  For any large attraction do make reservations and/or consider small groups tours as they can save you time and offer a much more rewarding experience.  On our trip, we managed to purchase tickets for the DaVinci exhibit at the Louvre.  The entrance process was well organized however the density of the crowds in the exhibit room interfered with a deep appreciation of the artefacts.  Friends of ours visited a month later on a pricey private tour but apparently the experience was exceptional and well worth the investment.

Another rather extravagant yet exceptional activity is a dinner cruise on the Seine on the Bateaux Parisiens (www.bateauxparisiens.com)  The service is impeccable, the food appetizing, and the wine is included along with the option to purchase other wines and beverages.  This experience embraces wine and cuisine, music, and the changing views of the monuments of Paris as you cruise by.  During the summer these sites are visible by evening light as you depart and by dramatic illumination after dark upon your return.  The most romantic evening imaginable, it must certainly be enjoyable in groups as well.

While the Christmas markets served as an initial excuse for organizing this trip, my pledge to my husband of a meal at L’Atelier sealed the deal.  Yet undeniably, the daily pleasures of Paris are the true draw to the City of Lights and every visitor or couple can create their own list of indispensable activities according to their personal inclinations.  During this period of obligatory travel limitations the promise of Paris keeps our dreams of exploration alive.